Blossom end rot is an issue that effects tomato, pepper, eggplant, pumpkin, squash, and watermelon plants. It’s caused by a calcium deficiency that appears at the bottom of the plant. A plant’s ability to absorb calcium is affected by wide swings in moisture.  Plants should receive an inch of rain a week. Use 2-3 inches of mulch to conserve moisture. Amend your soil in the spring with plenty of organic material. This replaces calcium and other micronutrients that have leached out of the soil. Finally, don’t set plants out too early. Wait until night time temperature stays above 55 degrees. Cold stunts the plants and makes them more likely to develop blossom end rot.

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Plant diets. Yep, we’re talking fertilizer. Just like our food, it comes in many forms. And there isn’t a “one fertilizer fits all” solution. It’s label reading time. There are 3 numbers on all labels. The first one tells you the amount of Nitrogen in the product. Nitrogen feeds foliage. So with a high nitrogen number, you can expect faster leaf/plant growth. Think lettuce. The second number is for Potassium. This element promotes healthy flowers and fruit. Think veggies. The last number is for Phosphorus that keeps plants healthy and strong.  By looking at these numbers, you have a better idea of what your plants need. But know your plant needs as well. Some plants actually prefer lean, infertile soil (ex. Feeding tall sedums makes the stems weak and floppy and lavender along with some herbs just plain aren’t happy with rich, well fertilized soil). Get your glasses out – it’s time to read labels! Time release fertilizers like Osmocote are great for several months worth of fertilizing, but they also have specific blends for specific plant needs.

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Let’s talk about one of my most hated pests: Squash Vine Borers. Hateful little suckers. Vines will look great one day and collapse the next – have they visited your garden? Adult moths lay eggs on the lower part of the leaves and tiny larvae bore holes into the vine. Eventually, they will kill the plant as they eat their way through the inside of the stem. If you had them last year, there’s a darn good chance they will be back this year as the larvae burrow into the ground and overwinter in the pupae stage to emerge as an adult in the spring.

Your best defense? Remove all garden debris. LOTS of bugs and disease overwinter in that. Second, till the soil to expose the cocoons to freezing temperatures. In late spring when you plant, spray every 7 days with insecticidal soap or neem oil (Bt also works). Make sure you get the undersides of the leaves as that’s where the adults are laying the eggs. Two plantings a couple of weeks apart also helps. Good luck! 

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A story about ornamental grasses.  Years ago, a dear friend of mine, Dr. Marc Cathey, took me on a tour of the National Arboretum in Washington DC. We stopped at the New American Garden (long time ago – probably a different name by now). This was when grasses were just beginning to come into vogue in landscapes. He asked me what I thought of them. My honest opinion was I thought they looked rather unkempt. He said we’d sit on the bench overlooking the planting until I developed a better appreciation of them. Miss that man! And I do appreciate them these days – just look around the farm. They’re great for fall and winter interest. Relatively carefree. Drought tolerant. Make great hedges. Birds love the seed heads.

Here’s how we take care of them come spring: Some people use duct tape, but string (baler twine) will do. Just tie or tape the stems together into a bundle, grab your hedge trimmers and cut about 4-6 inches above the ground. Easy clean up. Dr. Cathey would be proud.

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